The Decline of the British Pub

Every other time you read a newspaper there's a story about pubs closing, the angle invariably and unimaginatively that this reflects terrible economic times.

I have an alternative thesis. Too many pubs and the British 'craft' beers they sell are rubbish. A couple of mates and I go for the occasional pint, and I estimate that three of five we purchase are below mediocre, one in five undrinkable. On Thursday our last local in reasonable distance was a case in point. They are having their spring beer festival. Three of eight beers were left on, one a stout, another a Scottish 'heavy', and the third a golden ale. We chose the last. It was tasteless but not complaint material. I opted for well-made lager for round two. My mate's 'same again' was not possible as by then it too was off.

Someone we talked to had to wait 90 minutes for a curry. There were just two experienced people behind the bar, plus one lad of about 12, so you had to wait for a good 10 - 15 minutes to be served. Why bother.

In my writing job I regularly speak to brewers. One medium-sized firm has set up a centre to teach bar-staff how to keep and pull a pint, as they recognize what the problem is.

Many artisan brewers who've appeared over the last two decades brew vile beer. Most of the bad ones disappear, happily, but before they do they have spoiled evenings at pubs daft enough to buy their slops for new drinkers keen to try real ale. Some will switch back to factory-made cider, which at least will be refreshing, others to vodka shots. Many will reason they can buy excellent bottled beers to enjoy at home, below £2 for a characterful pint in front of the TV, no designated driver or taxi.

There are good artisan brewers. A few months back I enjoyed a pint made by Frodsham Brewery, nice hoppy flavour, and well kept. That is the exception. Especially the well kept bit. Eventually drinkers reason that £3.10 or above for a pint of cloudy vinegary flat greyness is a price not worth paying. And pubs close.

Northern Eco - food and pleasure

Hi,

Welcome to my first blog page. I'm a freelance journalist based in the Northwest of England, specialising in food and drink writing. As such I have loads of ideas and see lots of stuff that gets my mind racing - and frequently my blood boiling. Thus the need for a blog.

First up, drink rather than food. The last five times I have been out for a pint in my home city of Preston the hand pump bitter has been either poor or in the case of one pub 'off' on two seperate occasions. When you go to a pub and are told they are waiting to get a man in to sort the beer out, you have to ask what are the bar staff doing.

I keep reading about pubs losing customers. Does selling crap beer (or having no beer) explain this?